RAD.ical


Zaboravite Versace, Dior ili Chanel (ovo malo teže :), stigao je Rad! Pre koji dan, kanadski dizajner jordanskog porekla Rad Hourani izmamio je naklon pariske modne javnosti prvom zvaničnom unisex couture kolekcijom na svetu! Unisex, dobro ste čuli.  Pri pomenu reči couture, većina nas pomisli na bombonjeraste haljine pune čipke i luksuznih ručno rađenih detalja, koje pripadaju na crvenom tepihu. Sva sreća, kriterijum za couture kolekciju nije broj ušivenih bisera, već vreme i trud uložen u izradu ovih umetničkih dela, zbog čega perfektni minimalizam Rada Houranija potpuno pripada ovde. Pažljivo čuvano francusko kulturno nasleđe, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, je svojim otvaranjem i pozivima Iris Van Herpen i Radu Houraniju, dokazala je da prati ovde i sada, i da je Margiela, sa svojom Artisanal linijom, na putu da postane pravilo, a ne usamljena anomalija. 

Nemojte pogrešno da razumete, Rad ne želi da vidi muškarce u cvetnim haljinama i stiletto štiklama, niti žene kojima fale samo brkovi za total lokalni siledžija look, već pokušava da izbriše granice između muške i ženske garderobe. Ko kaže da devojčice treba da nose roze, a dečaci plavo? Rad Hourani nam nudi pravi unisex, suštinu oslobođenu forme, brisanje granica i prozor u ideal gde nije bitna boja kože, godine, pol, materijalno uopšte. Potraga za najmanjim zajedničkim sadržaocem između muškog i ženskog tela rađa neočekivane, dinamične i geometrijske, ali i senzualne forme. Koje apsolutno pripadaju i na ženskom, ali i na muškom telu. Arhitektura njegove mode kranje je pročišćena, ali istovremeno i veoma kompleksna. Minuciozno konstruisani detalji u monohromatskom okviru daju utisak bezvremenosti, ali govore i o jasnom poznavanju ovde i sada

Svojom svežinom, jakim konceptom i hiruški čistom izvedbom, ova kolekcija naterala me je da vrisnem jedno glasno WOW! ispred monitora. Sa druge strane, ako previše radikalno postavite svoj koordinatni sistem, očekivanja sebe i drugih da nastavite da se krećete u njemu, opasnost su da postanete one trick pony, poput Garetha Pugha, čiji je previše određene kolekcije posle pete sezone deluju već viđeno.

////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Forget VersaceDior and Chanel (this one's going to be tricky :), here comes Rad! Couple of days ago, Canadian of Jordanian origin Rad Hourani left the fashion world speechless with the first ever official unisex couture collection! Yes, you've heard it right - it's unisex. Most of us associate the word couture with bombonniere-like Oscar-worthy dresses full of lace and meticulous detailing. Luckily for us, the criteria for something to be considered couture is not the number of embroidered pearls, but the time and effort invested in these works of art, which is exactly why Rad Hourani's perfect minimalism truly belongs here. Carefully guarded French cultural legacy, Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, has shown the signs of opening by sending invitations to Iris Van Herpen and Rad Hourani, proving that Margiela with its Artisanal collection is on the way to become a rule, rather than an anomaly. 

Don't get him wrong. Rad doesn't want to see men in heels and floral dresses, nor women missing only mustache for a local-bully-total-look, but to erase the boundaries between women's and men's clothing. Who says that girls are supposed to wear pink, while blue is for boys only? Rad Hourani is offering us a true unisex, dissolving the boundaries he frees the essence from mere form. He is showing us through a window into the ideal world where no skin color, gender, or, actually anything from the material world counts. The search for common territory between male and female body brings out the unexpected - dynamic and geometric, yet sensual forms, which absolutely belong both to male and female physique. The architecture of his fashion is pure, yet very complex at the same time. Meticulously constructed details within a monochromatic frame speaks of timelessness, but also show that Rad Hourani is very aware of here and now. 

With its freshness, strong conceptual approach and surgically clean execution, this collection made me yell one big WOW! in front of my screen. On the other hand, if you set your coordinate system too radically, the expectation of other people to keep moving within it, there's a danger you will become a one trick pony, such as Gareth Pugh, whose collections look all similar after seeing five of them. 





Downtown


A lepo piše. Na etiketama, na netu (za nas, Google domaćice) - vuna se ne pere. Znam ja to, naravno, ali mi se, iskreno, nisu davale pare za hemijsko čišćenje pantalona koje sam na Najlon pijaci platila dinarski dvocifreno. Bilo je i hepiendova, štofovi koji nisu od čiste vune sasvim su se lepo prali na mašinskom programu za fin veš. Što, naravno, ovde nije bio slučaj. Ja sam zamislila lepe, oversize, moćne muške pantalone, ali one su odlučile da odu na dečije odeljenje. Početna zamisao su bile ove Céline lepojke sa zipovima (ta revija mi je, inače, totalni pobednik za sezonu jesen-zima 2012.) , i nisam imala nameru da od nje odustajem. Kao pravi jarac, tvrdoglavo sam naterala vernu šnajderku Desu da ovaj DIY Céline projekat isteramo do kraja. Možda sam krenula negde drugde, ali srećna sam gde sam završila, šta vi kažete?

Da ne zaboravim ni ostale sjajne ( i bukvalno :) stvari - pre svega, candy clutch, plen iz Margiela x H&M kolekcije. Zatim, još jedna wannabe Givenchy ogrlica...zlatna je bila usamljena, morala sam da uzmem i srebrnu. Za kraj, moj kašmirski oversize oblak (toliko je mekan i fin, izbor reči nimalo slučajan!), u savršenoj camel boji. The Raveonettes su tu jer ćemo u februaru da vrištimo iz prvog reda, valja na vreme krenuti sa pripremama:)

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

For those who know to read, it is written in capital letters. On labels, internet (where else would Google housewife look for a piece of advice?) - don't wash woolen clothes. Of course I know that but, honestly, I did not want to pay for dry cleaning five times the price I paid for the pants on Nylon flea market. In my defense, there were couple of happy endings - if the clothes are not 100% wool, they can usually be washed just fine on delicate cycle. Which, of course, wasn't the case here. I had beautiful and powerful, oversize masculine pants in mind, only to end up with something you'd most likely find in Kids department. I wanted those Céline zip pants (that collection is definitely my favorite of Fall 2012 season), and I had no intention of letting go. Stubborn as one Capricorn can be, I persuaded my faithful seamstress Desa to continue with this  DIY Céline project. What do you say? I might have started in one direction, but I'm happy where I ended :)

And let's not forget the rest - shiny candy clutch, another Margiela x H&M trophy in my collection. Then, another wannabe Givenchy choker necklace, this time in silver, you all remember the golden one. Last, but not the least, my cashmere oversized cloud (yes, it is that soft and fluffy) in the perfect camel color. The Raveonettes are here because I'll be seeing them live in couple of weeks, so I'm practicing sing-alongs by then :)



glossy torque necklace with cut out detail thanks to OASAP // DIY Céline zip pants // Maison Martin Margiela x H&M candy clutch // vintage Max Mara oversized cashmere coat // DIY white chiffon shirt // hardware store ring // random black heels thirfted from Kalenić flea market

photo // Ivana Korać

listen // The Raveonettes - Downtown





Forgotten



Negde između novogodišnjih moram i hoću, i rođendanskih želim, našla sam ovaj zaboravljeni berlinski folder. Iako mi za Berlin ne treba povod, ovaj put bio je to Berlin festival, dvodnevni indie raj na starom aerodromu Tempelhof. U timu (iz snova) Dženana, Peđa et moi, kao iskusna berlinerka, u ulozi vodiča. Sa Berlinom sam vas već više puta upoznavala, pa ćemo preskočiti uobičajene protokolarije i preći na stvar, pardon, muziku. Iamamiwhoami me je ostavila bez daha, a i bez pravih reči, pa je možda najbolje da je sami malo istražite. Sve što volim u vezi sa Švedskom, spakovano u jednu neizgovorivu reč, i sat ipo potpune ekstaze. Osim što zaista (ali, zaista) zvuči kao na snimku, Grimes osvaja nagradu za najveću facu – umesto da se sama skine, ona je stavila 5 zgodnih frajera na scenu, koje je, iz pesme u pesmu, sve više razgolićavala. Nešto kao Rihanna in reverse. Moralni pobednik ipak Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaur, pirgavi mladić iz Engleske koji ima 40 kg zajedno sa miksetom, jer je napravio ŽU-RKE-TI-NU, i imao belkinje, koje su mešale oblinama bolje od bilo kakve crnkinje. Pametno, seksi, ma...pametno jeste seksi. I da, Killersi k’o Killersi, svaka im je stadionska. Moram priznati da sam koji put i zevnula. Mnoge ću ovde i preskočiti, a bili su fenomenalni – Friendly Fires, When Saints Go Machine (utvrđujem gradivo:), Friends, Whomadewho, Sigur Ros, We Have Band...

Obzirom da rođendan slavim koji dan posle Nove godine, za obe zgode poželim isto a onda ubeđujem sebe kako tako postoji duplo veća mogućnost da se snovi ostvare :) Elem, jasno vam je da sam ovaj put poželela što više Berlina, što od srca želim i vama! Nadam se da vas je ovo miholjsko berlinsko sunce ogrejalo koliko i mene u zvanično najdepresivnijem danu u godini (majkemi, bilo na radiju :) 

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Somewhere in between New Year’s resolutions and Bday wishes, I stumbled upon this long forgotten Berlin folder. Although I would gladly visit Berlin without any, this time the reason was Berlin festival, a two-day indie paradise located on Tempelhof airport. As an experienced wannabe Berliner, I was a guide to Dženana and Peđa. You had a chance to meet Berlin coupleof times before on this blog, so I’ll skip the formal introduction and get straight to the point - music.  Iamamiwhoami left me breathless and speechless, so instead of trying to find the right words to describe this everything-I-love-about-Sweden hour and a half ecstasy, I’ll ask you to do your own homework on her. Except for really (and by really I mean really) having the voice we hear on the records, Grimes gets the coolest chick around award. Instead of showing us her own body, she took five hot guys, put them on the stage and stripped them from song to song – something like Rihanna in reverse. Totally Enormous Extinct Dinosaur is definitely a moral winner – this 40 kilos-together-with-the-mixer nerd from England made THE P-A-R-T-Y! Smart, sexy...hell, smart IS sexy! Oh, and The Killers...well, every song was stadium-worthy, seems like they’ve done their U2 homework well. I must admit I even yawned a few times. And those I’ve forgetten, but who were fantastic, as well - Friendly FiresWhen Saints Go MachineFriendsWhomadewhoSigur RosWe Have Band...

As my Bday is only couple of days away from New Year’s Eve, I wish the same things two times, hoping that way  I’m doubling the chances of my dreams coming true :) Of course, this time I wished for as much Berlin as possible, something I wish to all of you, too! I hope that this indian (Berlin) summer has warmed your hearts as much as mine in the officially most depressive day of the year (I swear, I’ve heard it on the radio :)


DIY dip hem shirt dress // gold embroidered pants and creepers thrifted from Nylon flea market // H&M golden crescent necklace // Casio retro digi watch




DIY acrylic and metal knuckleduster rings // hardware store ring // acid wash 80s dress thrifted from Kalenić flea market // H&M neon statement necklace // New Balance 420


DIY studded shirt // camo shorts and creepers thrifted from Nylon flea market // Bershka sweater // Gina Tricot body chain // Casio retro digi watch